The Pilgrimage To Downton Abbey

Highclare Caste, also known as Downton Abbey!

One rainy Friday night in Oxford after a long, hard week of classes, some of us girls were looking for something to do that required little energy.  Ideally, we wanted to watch a BBC miniseries (keep in mind we are all English majors, so yes sometimes we do spend our Friday nights watching British television).  After fruitlessly trying to stream both Netflix and Hulu, which apparently only work in America, Chelsea remembered she had Downton Abbey season two on her computer.  Instantly, a group assembled in Torunns’ room, crowded around the computer screen.  We had both long time viewers and new converts, but we were all soon sucked into the magical world of early 20^th century England. 

If you haven’t watched the show, it is one of the most popular dramas in England and has substantial following in the US via PBS.  It is hard to explain the show (really you should just watch it), but it focuses on an upper-class family and their servants in the era before, during, and after WWI and how class changes are starting to affect them.  Classic elements of storytelling are involved: romance, suspense, thwarted love, misunderstandings, war, etc.  Really the show has something that will appeal to everyone and British accents to boot.  The shining gem of the show is Maggie Smith’s sassy Dowager who steals the show with hilarious one-liners. 

After we marched nightly through the season’s eight episodes, we decided it would be fitting to visit the location of Downton Abbey.  This would be Highclare Castle, which was only a little over an hour away via train.  In a pilgrimage that would make Chaucer proud, (can you tell I am reading The Canterbury Tales right now?)  seven of us went this past Sunday to visit the site of our show. 

lining up like the servants

Upon arrival, we first had tea and scones to get in the spirit of things, as the characters constantly drink tea on the show like all good Brits.  Then we toured the gardens, both the ones shown in the show and the others that are ignored.  We learned they have sheep on the grounds that are never featured in the show.  We saw the Greek inspired structure where Edith and Scar-Face man have their pivotal conversation in Season 2.  We then were shown in the house.  The family still lives there, and to sustain the hefty cost (11 million pounds) of keeping up the house and grounds, they rent out the house to BBC and give tours in the summer.  You can also have your wedding there.  Downton Abbey is probably the best thing that has ever happened to Highclare Castle financially. 

The interior of the house pretty much resembles the show.  Interestingly, the servants’ quarters are not filmed there as the kitchen is modernized.  They had signs up that indicated what rooms were used in the show, but they didn’t emphasize it as much as I thought they would.  They also tried to push the family history, which was less appealing to the many Downton pilgrims.  One correlation between the real family history and the show is that the house was used as a hospital in WWI just as it is on the show.

We were in fine form in the house and totally geeked out: “That is where the Dowager gave Daisy advice! This is where Richard and Matthew fought!  This is Pamuk’s room! This is where Lavinia stood as she walked down the staircase and saw Mary and Matthew dancing!”  It was fun to experience it with other fans of the show.

Chelsea and Ellie re-enacting the season 2 finale

After touring, we spent the afternoon on the grounds drinking more tea, rambling the grounds, and reading.  It was pleasant to sit outside, book in hand, sheep bleating in the background, and a nice warm cuppa tea.  We had a bit of a scare at the end when we weren’t sure if our taxi driver was going to remember to come get us and take us to the train station.  Luckily, we found some Americans (one from Glen Ellyn, IL. Small world) who let us use their phone.  Overall, it was a wonderful day and a fun adventure to experience with the other Downton fans.  We are all now in withdrawal until season three returns in January.